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Opening wine used to involve such ceremony. A corkscrew would be produced, and with a flourish the foil cover would be removed. Then, with a creak and a pop of the cork, the party would begin.
But visit any bottle shop in Australia these days and you'll be dazzled by the shiny screw caps adorning most wine bottles - 70 per cent of all Australian wines, according to industry sources.
The romantics among us may miss the sound of celebration we associate with the popping of corks, but the pragmatists have happily turned to screw tops for their convenience and the purported improvement in wine quality.
Of course, the screw top versus cork debate goes beyond the emotional and practical to the technical and financial. In Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and the US, screw tops appear to be winning the argument on price and performance. But cork is now fighting back and claims to have Mother Nature on its side.
Sealing the debate
The problem with cork is its potential to let oxygen seep into a sealed bottle, tainting the wine in the process. Before the screw cap arrived on the scene, one to fifteen per cent of all wines (depending on which industry group, researcher, wine maker or wine taster you believe) were ruined because they were 'corked'.
First appearing on the scene in the 1970s, aluminium and plastics quickly convinced New World wine makers they were taint-free closures.
In a tit-for-tat, cork supporters claim the anaerobic environment in bottles sealed tightly with plastic or aluminium can cause a build-up of sulphides in wine and a distinctive smell of "cat pee".
What is clear is that cork has been losing out to the alternatives - between 2000 and 2005, worldwide cork stopper sales dropped by 20 per cent, according to a WWF report, Cork Screwed?
In the aptly named report presented to the London Wine Fair in 2006, WWF warned that if the trend continued or accelerated, 95 per cent of the world's wine market would be capped by screw tops or synthetics by 2015. Its main concern was the impact on the cork oak forests in the western Mediterranean.
"A healthy demand for wine stoppers means the forests can maintain their economic value and people will care for them. But if the demand for cork is not maintained there is a risk the cork oak landscapes will face increased poverty, more forest fires, loss of biodiversity and faster desertification," said Nora Berrahmouni, head of the WWF Cork Oak Landscapes Program in Rome.
Cork oaks (Quercus suber) can be grown in any dry climate; there's even one in the ACT, planted by Walter Burley Griffin.
But the trees thrive in their natural habitat - in the special mix of rainfall, wind, and soil conditions stretching in a 30,000-square-kilometre band across Portugal, Spain, southern France and Italy and along the North African seaboard in Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia.
Over the centuries, humans have lived in harmony with the cork oak trees, using their bark for fishing floats, insulation and, of course, wine; planting crops beneath their boughs; and feeding livestock on their fallen acorns. These 2.7 million hectares of cork landscapes are now listed in the top 25 biodiversity hotspots in the world, and support some 60,000 jobs.
In an age-old tradition, cork harvesters peel the spongy bark from the trees with hand axes. The trees can live for 300 years, and bark isn't harvested until a tree reaches maturity at 35 years, and then every 9 years thereafter.
Nowadays, the bark is converted into everything from wine corks, flooring, insulation, acoustics, and industrial products, to fishing rod handles, shoes and even clothing and handbags.
But it's the cork stoppers that generate the most return: they account for only 30 per cent of the volume harvested, but 70 per cent of the total cork market value. That's why WWF is urging wine makers and wine drinkers to choose cork and save the forests.